FROM THE VINEYARD
Autumn in Serra d'Ossa:
where next year's wine begins
Harvest ends and the vineyard goes quiet. Most people assume the work stops here. It doesn't.
Autumn in Serra d'Ossa is when next year's wine begins, not in the winery, but in the soil and the vine itself.
The vines are still working
After the fruit is gone, the leaves stay. This is deliberate. Every day those leaves remain on the vine, they are photosynthesising, converting light into carbohydrates that travel down through the shoots and into the root system and permanent wood.
This is the vine building its reserves for winter dormancy and, more importantly, for the energy it will need to push new growth in spring.
We keep canopy intact for as long as the season allows. A vine that enters winter with strong reserves produces more consistent budbreak, stronger early shoots, and ultimately better fruit the following year.
Rushing leaf fall, or worse, stripping canopy early, borrows from next vintage to save time on this one.
The first rains change everything
After months of Alentejo heat, the first autumn rains arrive, sometimes in late September, sometimes not until November.
When they come, the vineyard transforms overnight. Cracked, pale earth turns dark. The air smells different. There is a release in the landscape that is hard to describe unless you have stood in it.
For the soil, this is the moment it begins to recover. Summer in the Alentejo is relentless with daytime temperatures above 35ºC for weeks, minimal rainfall, and soil surfaces that crack and compact under the sun.
The rain reopens structure in the ground. It reactivates the microbial life that has been dormant beneath the surface.
This year, we are trying something new
Once the soil has moisture this autumn, we are planting cover crops between the vine rows for the first time. This is something we have been considering for a while, and this is the year we put it into practice.
The idea is straightforward. A mix of grasses and legumes planted between the rows should hold topsoil in place during the heavier winter rains, preventing erosion on our south-facing slope.
The legumes draw nitrogen from the atmosphere and fix it into the soil, reducing the need for synthetic inputs. And the root systems and surface cover support insect populations, earthworms, and the soil fungi that keep a vineyard's terroir alive and expressive.
By spring, the cover crop will be cut and left to decompose in place, returning organic matter directly to the soil.
That is the theory. We will know more by next vintage, whether the vine vigour changes, whether the soil holds water differently through the summer, whether the biodiversity we already see in the farm shifts in any measurable way.
We are not presenting this as a solution. It is an experiment.
But it is the kind of decision that defines how we want to farm, attentive, considered, and willing to adjust.
Recovery, not rest
It is tempting to call this the quiet season. It is not.
The vine is recovering from the physical stress of carrying fruit to full ripeness. The soil is rebuilding after a dry season.
And we are already making observations: which rows need attention, where the soil structure has weakened, what the canopy told us about vigour and balance. These will shape how we approach pruning when early winter arrives.
Autumn is the season where nothing looks like it is happening. But everything that matters for the next vintage is being stored, planted, or observed.
Wine always tastes of somewhere. What that somewhere does between harvests is part of the flavour.